Reaching Coorg
We took an overnight train from Bengaluru to Subramanya Road (SBHR), boarding around 8 PM and reaching by 5 AM. From the station, we took a local bus to Kukke Subramanya temple, about 12 km away. The ride costs ₹35 in a bus and ₹50–60 in a shared taxi.
We reached our hotel by 6 AM, tired yet excited. I couldn’t sleep the whole night in train as it was freezing in the train, and my fever had slightly worsened. With zero sleep and body fatigue, I was about to attempt one of the hardest treks in South India and that’s where the adventure truly began.
1) Kumara Parvatha Trek
Luckily, we found a small eatery near the temple serving puri, dosa, and tea ₹200 for two. Food in Kukke is slightly expensive compared to portion size, but the warmth of the place makes up for it.
We picked up a few snacks and reached the auto stand to head to the base camp. After necessary checking and counting of plastics (a good initiative to keep the trail clean), we began our trek by 8:30 AM.
The Kumara Parvatha trek is considered one of the most challenging in South India nearly 22 km (Kukke to Kukke ) both ways, with steep ascents, dense forests, and open grasslands. The peak stands at around 1,712 m, making it the second highest peak in Coorg.
We finally returned by 6 PM drenched, tired, and sore, but fulfilled. We had a late dinner of pulao and idli at a roadside hotel, treated the leech bites, took a painkiller, and crashed into bed by 8:30 PM. That night’s sleep was one of the best I’d had in a long time.
2) Kumaradhara River
The next morning, we woke up by 4 AM, packed our bags, and checked out. Our first stop was the Kumaradhara River, which flows right near our hotel.
The river originates from the Pushpagiri Hills (Kumara Parvatha) and holds great spiritual significance. Pilgrims take a dip here before visiting the Kukke Subramanya Temple, as it is believed to purify one’s body and mind.
After bathing in the cool river, we dressed up and made our way to the temple.
3) Kukke Subramanya Temple
Dedicated to Lord Subramanya (Kartikeya) worshipped here along with serpents (Nagas) this temple is one of the most sacred shrines in Karnataka. Built on the banks of the Kumaradhara, it’s said that Lord Subramanya protected Vasuki, the serpent king, from Garuda here.
The temple provides a free counter for footwear and luggage, which was surprisingly well-managed compared to many other temples I’ve visited.
We had an early darshan and felt truly blessed. After that, we walked about 400 m to the next temple.
4) Adi Subramanya Temple
The Adi Subramanya Temple is one of the oldest shrines in the region, where serpent deities are worshipped in anthills. It’s believed to be the original abode of Lord Subramanya before he moved to the main Kukke temple.
We washed our feet in a small stream outside and sprinkled a few drops on our heads before entering. After performing archana (₹15) and receiving mud-prasada which was unique ,I mixed the mud in water and drank it.Different temples around India have different form of prasada and this was one among them .
On the way back to Kukke Subramanya temple , we stopped at local shops selling souvenirs, small idols, and wooden carvings. We then joined the breakfast line at the main temple a beautiful tradition where everyone is served equally.
The temple of Kukke offers free breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. We had soft upma with hot coffee (unlimited refills!) and bought prasada from the counter mainly ladoos and panchakajjaya priced around ₹20 each for taking back home .
This temple is also famous for Naga pooja, a serpent-related ritual unique to this place.
5) Biladwara Caves
Around 2 km from the main temple lies the mysterious Biladwara Cave, believed to be where the serpent Vasuki took refuge to escape Garuda. The cave is narrow, dark, and slightly eerie especially after rain.
We explored it briefly but didn’t go too deep as the path ahead turned steep and pitch dark without ropes or lights. Still, the natural formation and mythological connection made it worth visiting.
6) Sri Abhaya Anjaneya Temple
About 500 m from the main temple stands the Sri Abhaya Anjaneya Temple, dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The idol here is said to protect devotees from fear and obstacles.
By the time we reached, it started raining, so we sat inside the temple for a while listening to the rain hit the tiled roof and watching locals offer prayers.
The Evening in Kukke
After the rain eased, we visited the KSRTC bus stand to check timings and found that the last bus to the railway station was at 7:30 PM.
We had a wholesome Banana-leaf lunch inside the temple premises simple, sattvic, and filled with warmth. Later, we roamed around the small town, sipping chai, watching the day wind down slowly.
In the evening, we witnessed a classical dance performance at the temple auditorium by young local artists. Watching them perform with such grace and discipline was beautiful the sync between their movements and the rhythm of traditional music was mesmerizing.
After nearly two hours, we collected our luggage from luggage counter, packed dinner parcels, and caught the bus to the railway station. We reached by 8 PM and boarded the train by 8:45 PM. This time, after a full meal, I slept like a rock.
By 6 AM, we were back at KSR Bangalore tired, healed, and deeply content.
Reflections
Every trip teaches you something this one taught me humility and endurance. Trekking with fever, bathing in a cold river, sitting on temple floors, watching dance performances, and eating temple food instead of fancy meals all of it reminded me what real living feels like.
In a world that’s racing fast, Coorg made me slow down, breathe, and just exist.
Budget Overview
- Hotel (1 day) – ₹1,100
- Train (Bengaluru–Subramanya Road – Bengaluru) – ₹1100 (sleeper class)
- Bus to Kukke - ₹140
- Snacks for trek - ₹200-300
- Food – ₹800(approx.)
- Trek Permit – ₹700
- Miscellaneous - ₹200-300
- Total: ~₹4200 for two person (Approx)
